The autos in Chennai are a law unto themselves. They never flip the fare meters on and they zip through the tiniest spaces with careless abandon. They are colour blind to signals and prey on unsuspecting newbies who arrive in the city. You can't wish them away but they are still the best way to get around the city if you're in a hurry - and if you don't mind listening to 'hard luck' stories while you get scalped.

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